It's 2am and outside it looks like Mars. I've just been jolted awake from an airport transfer doze. A huge full moon hangs low in the sky illuminating the white, softly curving hills, pockmarked by abandoned cave dwellings. Vast conical pillar formations cluster in the lee of a hillside, while surreal shapes, blasted by wind and rain, are silhouetted against a narrow canyon of pink basalt. Houses Troglodytes